This inconspicuous little island located about 5 km from the center of Elounda is one of the biggest tourist attractions in Crete. Of the other Cretan historical sites of Spinalonga (Σπιναλόγκα) popularity is second only to the palace at Knossos. Surrounded by the emerald waters of Mirabello Bay, this island attracts over 30,000 tourists every year. Visiting this beautifully situated midwife, it is sometimes difficult to remember his grim history. Here was the last European leprosarium to which lepers were sent.
This part of the island's history begins in 1830 when Greece won independence and threw off the Turkish yoke. Despite the fact that the Turks withdrew from occupied Greek areas, they did not smoke too much to abandon Spinalonga, on which they founded a settlement. According to sources referring to the 1881 census, there were 1112 Turks.
Some sources indicate that the Greeks were to send leprosy patients to get rid of the Turks from the island. Spinalonga is located quite close to the shore, so this transport would not be a problem. The barracks of the former Venetian fortress, which could accommodate up to 450 people, were given to the patients first. With time, they also took over the buildings of Muslim residents who quickly left the island in this situation. Probably the first lepers were transported in 1903. It is assumed that by 1957 this place constituted a colony for about 2,000 people infected with leprosy (some sources, however, give a much smaller number: 1,300 people).
Spinalonga visible in a photo taken in 1901.
Inventing a series of medications for leprosy, which slowed the development of the disease, and some of its variants were even possible to heal, caused that the number of patients slowly decreased. Some of them returned home, and in 1957 the last ten of the most seriously ill were transferred to a hospital in Athens.
Today, the Greeks are not very happy to talk about Spinalonna and those of the exiles who are still living relentlessly reach for their memories. For this reason, for a very long time it was impossible to write down the history of this place and hence there are significant discrepancies in the information (number of patients, clearly defined date of creation). Only a few years ago, a doctoral thesis on the history of leprosarium was created at the Cretan University.
Since 1957, when the last one left the island, it is uninhabited, while those who come here for a day to work leave this place with the last ship. If it were not for the fact that the island became a tourist attraction that allows to gain profits from this popularity, it would probably fall into oblivion and ruin. Until relatively recently, you could only get here individually, with a paid fisherman from a nearby village. Today in the summer, they regularly sail to the shores of Spinalonga with boats filled with tourists from Elounda, Plaki and Agios Nikolaos.
Although most people know about the former leprosarium, the most important thing is the picturesque nature of this place. The ruins of the fortress, the remains of Venetian houses, breathtaking views are a magnet. One can even get the impression that the guide stories about incurably sick patients are too shallow.
It is emphasized above all that the old inhabitants lived normally and created their town here. Perhaps the story given in this way suits this beautiful place and allows us to somehow familiarize ourselves with the thoughts of this horrible disease and dramas that took place here. However, this obscure part of the more grim part of the history of Spinalonga and its inhabitants goes away.
Leprosy also called leprous is a disease that for centuries has caused terror in people. Formerly infected with her, they had to carry bells with them to warn others of their arrival. As far as possible, the sick were isolated so that leprosy would not spread. It is now known that the vast majority of the human population is immune to it, and the disease itself is not so easily transferred. However, despite the invention of medicines, noit can be considered defeated, because currently according to the WHO estimates, the number of people infected with it is around 15 million (of which 70% is in India).
In Crete, leprosy probably got from Egypt. If you think that the Greek authorities had to use any coercive measures to place lepers on the island, you are wrong. In most cases, the case dealt with the fear of the rest of a healthy society that effectively isolated sick people. The infected had to choose either a lonely life high in the mountains far from human habitation, or a substitute for real life among other patients. For several dozen years of functioning of the leprosarium there has been a significant number of patients, which clearly shows what choice these people made.
During the Second World War even the Germans kept a safe distance and did not dare to take over the island. Only warning boards were set up on the beaches around her, and the residents were left alone. It gave them a bit more freedom. They could listen to messages broadcast by radio in London or Cairo without any problems. The price they paid for relative peace of mind was the starvation of half the sick.
Moved here, the sick in time tried to make their everyday life resemble ordinary life. They dealt with small gardens, olive trees and few animals. It must be remembered, however, that they could not erase the forced separation of their families from their memory. Until the invention of leprosy drugs, the cruise to the island took place only one way without the possibility of return. It is not strange, therefore, that also in this place these people created new relationships, in spite of the terrible disease. However, they were also stigmatized by leprosy. The children born in Spinalonna were immediately taken away after being examined and taken to Crete. According to one of the sources, 39 children were born here, of which 16 died.
Leprosy is a tricky disease that develops for a very long time, and patients live with it for many years. However, progressive symptoms made it impossible for the people of Spinalonga to perform harder work, so they had to pay for their work to workers from the nearby village of Plaka. Unfortunately, rates for these services were much higher than for other people. Doctors who sometimes came here also made salty bills for their visits. With time, the Greek government admitted to the infected small benefits (1 drahma per day), which, however, became a salt in the eye of healthy residents of the surrounding villages.
People who came to Spinaloga (workers or doctors) had to go through the decontamination station before leaving the island. The money that patients paid for services and food was also disinfected. The most common vinegar was said to serve this purpose.
During the Second World War, when the inhabitants of the island began to support the International Red Cross parcels, the roles turned slightly, because from Spinalonga to Plaka small amounts of food were sold to the hungry inhabitants of the mainland. Imagine how desperate were the Greeks at that time who bought lepers from food? There have also been cases when healthy people, depressed by poverty, chose to escape to the island and become infected with leprosy just to live at least a bit "better".
With time, the conditions on the island became more human, a hospital appeared and a hospital for the most seriously ill. Small workshops, a barber shop and a cafeteria were created. Inhabitants of the island were one of the first to receive their power generator (which also aroused envy). It is worth remembering that this compulsory isolation was also provided to educated people such as doctors or teachers, journalists who, while working on the island, increased the level of its functioning.
Nowadays, a distinctive trace of this past is the museum, in which old everyday objects of the then inhabitants were collected. In recent years, some buildings undergo a solid reconstruction and reconstruction. Thanks to this, walking along the streets you can get the impression that we have gone back in time and history is happening here and now. Other buildings that are in danger of collapsing are waiting their turn.
The most depressing placethere is a cemetery on the entire island where the dead were buried. There are simple anonymous graves covered with ordinary concrete slabs with no decorations.
To get to Spinalonga, you need to buy a cruise in Agios Nikolaos, Place or Elounda. A dozen or so boats run regularly from Elounda itself, and the cost of a return ticket for an adult person in 2015 was 10 €. You can also come here directly from Agios Nikolaos, ticket prices range between 16 and 25 €.
Until the autumn of 2015, the cost of the entrance ticket was symbolic and amounted to just € 2. However, when planning next year's holidays, it is worth remembering that in the new 2016 season, these prices will increase significantly. According to the latest price list, the cost of entry to the fortress area is about 8 €.
↤ click the appropriate part of the island to change the bottom map
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Komentarze
komentarz z
Byłam i polecam. Miejsce warte odwiedzenia.
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Też byłam ,polecam
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warto zwiedzić,...
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Piękne miejsce z ciekawą historią
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Tak, jej część opublikowaliśmy właśnie w podlinkowanym artykule.
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Polecam książkę "Wyspa" .Pobudza wyobraźnię.
komentarz z
Niesamowite miejsce.
komentarz z
Bylam warto
komentarz z
Robi ogromne wrażenie! Polecam.
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komentarz z
Piękne miejsce byłam
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Byłam. Brak słów.
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Bardzo chętnie wróciłabym tam raz jeszcze, wyspa robi niesamowite wrażenie!
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Kreta miała byc wyspą moich wakacji w tym roku. Niestety nie bylo miejsc w samolotach. Polecialem na Korfu :(
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Jan nic straconego. Kreta na pewno nie ucieknie a Korfu też ciekawe i mamy nadzieję że miałeś udane wakacje, bo to jakby nie patrzeć jest najważniejsze :)
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Najblizsze wakacje z pewnością będa na Krecie :)
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Super polecam byłam zwiedzilam
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Kazda z wysp ma swoje uroki.Zwiedzilam juz wiele ale zawsze chetnie wracam tam.ten klimat widoki .....cudnie
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Wspaniałe miejsce!
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Jest świetny,grecki, wzruszający film o tej wyspie.
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Akurat teraz tlumacze ten film na jezyk polski, koncze juz 5 odcinek z 26 :-)
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Świetnie!!! jestem ciekawa na jakim kanale będzie go można zobaczyć.
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:)
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pieknie tam jest, byłam:)))
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Ja tez wciaz wracam na Krete.Wieczny niedosyt !!! tych pieknych i niezapomnianych widokow !!!!
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warto zwiedzic piekne miejsca
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Mialam okazje byc i polecam jest jeszcze piekna ksiazka Wyspa wlasnie o Spinaladze
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Zgadza się, ale nakład został wyczerpany. Można próbować szczęścia na allegro.
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W jakim miesiącu było zrobione to zdjęcie?
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Na krecie bylismy na wycieczce na spinaladze a zdjecie zrobilam z statku
o "wYSPIE" słów kilka...
Książka, o której wcześniej była już mowa, to książka p.t. "Wyspa". Jej autorką jest Victoria Hislop (pod tym samym tytułem jest jeszcze kilka książek różnych autorów, choć nie sądzę aby one były o Spinalondze).
Właśnie kończę czytać tę książkę. Książka z tych co to czyta się "od dechy do dechy" i trudno się od niej oderwać. W charakterze jest to chyba taka bardziej "kobieca" książka, momentami może powodować "szklenie się oczu". Ja, stary facet, czytam ją z ogromnym zainteresowaniem zwłaszcza, że jak kiedyś wyczytałem w rozmowie z autorką, jest oparta na faktach. Uważam, że świetnie wprowadza w klimat Spinalongi. Ponieważ się tam za miesiąc wybieram, to sami rozumiecie....
Książka jest aktualnie do kupienia np w eMPIK-u
"Wyspa"
Zgadza się, jest obecnie dostępne nowe wydanie "Wyspy".
spinalonga
Byłem naprawdę polecam w tym roku też tam będę bo warto
Obowiązkowa pozycja dla zwiedzających Kretę,byłem 2 tygodnie temu. Polecam!!!
Byłem 2tygodnie temu,niesamowite miejsce, podczas rejsu statek zatrzymał się na pełnym morzu, można było skakać do wody,pół godziny pływania,piękna sprawa
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