Crete tourist guide

The best Polish website dedicated to the Greek island Crete and to a small extent of continental Greece. You will find useful information related to visiting Crete that goes beyond the offer of optional tours. On the website you will also find descriptions of the most interesting places that we visited by visiting this largest Greek island. The content complements the current news, photographs and recipes of Greek cuisine.

Agios Pavlos Church on Selouda Beach

There are places in Crete that we call magical. They are usually distinguished by a specific history or location in remote corners of the island. One such place is the over 1000-year-old Byzantine church of Agios Pavlos, erected on the remote Selouda beach in the south of Crete. Although we have already seen various photos of this corner, it made a stunning impression on us live. This church has been on our list of places to visit for a long time and we finally managed to implement this plan. The remote location and the logistical effort that must be put in to get here is a guarantee that few people from among tourists spending their holidays in Crete reach Agios Pavlos.

Agios Pavlos church

How to get here?

If someone would like to get here, they have several options to choose from. The first is the E4 hike from Agia Roumeli. This is by far the fastest and easiest route. However, to do it, you should spend the night in Agia Roumeli so that you can go out on the trail in the early morning. This option is especially recommended if you don't want to stop at Agios Pavlos, but go all the way to Loutro.

If the goal is only a trip to the church, you can skip the night and come to Agia Roumeli with the first ferry going here from Paleochora. However, such a solution means that the start of the trek will be postponed to around 10 am. With the option of going only to Agios Pavlos and returning to Agia Roumeli, such a march is perfectly feasible. However, with the option of going all the way to Loutro and returning by ferry to Paleochora, the plan will become unrealistic due to restrictions on ferries.


Agios Pavlos is approximately 4 km from Agia Roumeli, which, depending on the pace and the number of stops for photos, can take from 1.5 to 2 hours. The difficulty of the trail is moderate and the terrain is varied. In many places, the path leads through a sandy beach, which turns into a rocky beach and then turns into a sandy one again. We don't know what's worse: In several places you have to overcome larger stones, in others you have to take into account the necessity to walk along a path leading along a steep cliff. We also came across one place where the path was a bit dirty.

Trail E4 to Agios Pavlos Part of the E4 route between Agia Roumeli and Agios Pavlos

The second option is to reach Agios Pavlos by taking the trail from Loutro. However, in this case you have to take into account a much longer distance (about 9 km one way), and thus a longer time needed to walk. When departing from Loutro, an overnight stay in this town is a must. The first ferries from Chora Sfakion arrive in Loutro quite late, so there is not enough time for the trip and possible return to the same place. Additionally, you have to take into account that the trail from Loutro is quite tiring. Particularly exhausting is the rocky part of the path just beyond Marmara Beach. There is no place here to shelter from the sun. To make matters worse, it is quite a long fragment, which can be a pain in the summer months.
Another difficult part of this part of the trail, and perhaps a challenge for some people, is the steep and exposed section between the Likos and Marmara beaches.
If someone would like to implement this scenario, after reaching Agios Pavlos, the most sensible option is to continue the march to Agia Roumeli, where on the next morning you can take the ferry back to Loutro or further to Chora Sfakion.


Apparently, you can also get to Agios Pavlos by a rented boat from Agia Roumeli. However, we did not look for information on this option, so we will not suggest anything specific. Besides, we are of the opinion that excessive simplifications take away the magic of every more beautiful place. Let us stay, therefore, on hiking full of challenges.

Theoretically, there is one more option for a trip to Agios Pavlos with Agia Roumeli that does not require an additional overnight stay. If someone, after crossing Samaria, feels unsatisfied, he can treat himself to an additional walk to Selouda as a bonus. However, there are two conditions for implementing this variant. The first is the time: you need to leave Samaria around 1 p.m., to enter the trail to Agios Pavlos after a short rest and then return to Agia Roumeli before the departure of the return ferry to Paleochora or Chora Sfakion. Condition number two is very good physical condition, which will allow you to walk the extra few kilometers painlessly. This is a high bar, because most of the people who have already passed Samaria dream only of bathing and drinking beer, not another walk. The more so because in the summer the heat and scorching sun, which strongly affects this trail in the afternoon, can be very hard. It is worth taking this into account when assessing your abilities.

Regardless of the selected scenario, you always need to take into account several variables when planning this transition. First of all, where are you starting from and at what point do you want to end the march, and where do you finally go. The second important issue is the current timetables of ferry connections. These are the variables that will help you develop an action plan.

How did we do it?

We stayed at Agia Roumeli for a few nights, so we took the opportunity to walk a 13 km stretch of the trail between Agia Roumeli and Loutro. In carrying out this trip, we simply "passed" Agios Pavlos along the way.

In order to avoid the tiring sun and high temperature as much as possible, we set off on the trail just after 7 am. Thanks to this, we covered the entire section between Agia Roumeli and Agios Pavlos in a pleasant shade. An additional advantage of such an early season was a slightly dark, gray atmosphere visible both in the pictures and in the film. We reached Agios Pavlos after 2 hours of walking. As indicated above - this distance can be covered faster. However, we are not in favor of crossing the trails on time, and on the hiking routes we always take a lot of photos and record videos, which significantly extends our transition times.

Then, from Selouda Beach, where Agios Pavlos is located, we continued on to Loutro, where at the end of the day we took the last ferry back to Agia Roumeli. A small note here - the last ferry does not go further to Paleochora, but stays overnight in Agia Roumeli.


Tavern at the end of the world

To reach Seloud, the first steps were directed to a small tavern, which is located in front of the church. It's the only place in this neighborhood for civilization and basic amenities. Fortunately, the owners did not sleep anymore and gave us strong coffee, which immediately got us on our feet. The sparse decor of the tavern fully reflects the atmosphere of this place, which can be boiled down to a few words: simple offer, no commercialism. It is a very characteristic atmosphere for this type of place that is located at the proverbial end of the world. When we finished drinking coffee and went to see the church, we were caught up with the sun, the first rays of which began to shyly brush its stone walls.


Church on a wild beach

The Church of Agios Pavlos administratively belongs to the deserted village of Agios Ioannis located a few hundred meters above the beach. If you tried to spot it from a distance, it would probably be difficult as it was built from nearby stones. The colorful facade works like camouflage, so from a distance it's hard to distinguish the church from the surrounding rocks and the sea.

Church of Agios Pavlos

The question immediately arises "what is this church doing here?" It is not often that you see such buildings erected on the beach itself, among dark gray sand, pieces of gray-brown rocks and stones. It is said to have been erected around 1040 on the site where the apostle Paul baptized the first Christians during his trip to Rome. The local Saint John the Hermit, who lived in this area to stay away from other people, was to contribute to the creation of the church.


The church is built on a cross plan with a central dome. The inner part of the vault is decorated with heavily damaged frescoes probably from the 13th century, apparently not served by the vicinity of the seaside air. The rest of the decor is also very modest and austere. It is one of the characteristic features of this type of churches.


Selouda Beach, where the church stands, is covered with gray sand and pebbles, and above it grows a charming pine forest. It is a beautiful and long but completely wild beach with no typical infrastructure. If, after reaching this place, you would like to spend some time on it, you must bring all beach accessories with you.

Selouda Beach Selouda Beach

Finally, a small note for people who would like to go further to Loutro from Agios Pavlos. At this point, the E4 route does not run along the beach, do not go any further because it is a dead end. This beach is over a kilometer long, so taking the wrong path will mean extra walking distance. To get back on the trail, you have to go up the mountain right next to the church of Agios Pavlos. As you go this way, you will return to the path along the top of the dune. If you would go further along the beach itself, then it would be impossible to take a shortcut to the trail. In the further section of the E4, it delves into the pine forest located above. The terrain becomes much steeper, and the trail itself definitely goes above the sea coast.

The E4 route on Elouda Beach The E4 route at Selouda Beach

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Interesting places on Crete

↤ click the appropriate part of the island to change the bottom map

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Hrisoskalitissas
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The Omalos plateau
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The Omalos plateau
The Omalos plateau

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Agia Roumeli

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Sougia

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Agia Sofia

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Milia

Milia

Milia is an authentic mountain settlement, which most probably dates from about the seventeenth century.

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Potamida

Potamida

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Grammeno
Grammeno

Grammeno

Grammeno (Γραμμένο) is a beach that can be counted among one of the best and most beautiful beaches in this part of Crete.

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Platanias
German tunnels
Platanias<br/> German tunnels

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German tunnels

Platanias is a popular tourist destination. It is here that there are very interesting tunnels from World War II.

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Polirynia
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Agia Irini
Agia Irini

Agia Irini

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Gramvous
Gramvous

Gramvous

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Fortress
Fortress

Fortress

Agia Roumeli is located on the south coast of Chania Prefecture, between Chora Sfakion and Paleochora.

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Ag. Pavlos
Ag. Pavlos

Ag. Pavlos

The Byzantine church of Agios Pavlos was erected on the remote Selouda Beach in the south of Crete.

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Komentarze

 gość}
gość PiotrWie
2022-02-02 23:11:37

Po raz pierwszy byliśmy tam we wrześniu 2011,  dwukrotnie

 Raz przyjechaliśmy samochodem do  Agios Ioanis skąd zeszliśmy szlakiem - prowadzi w dół prawie kilometrowego klifu, ale jest poprowadzony zakosami - po dojściu zwiedziliśmy plaże, kościół i odpoczęliśmy w tawernie i wróciliśmy pod górę. Po kilku dniach pojechaliśmy rano do Chorej Sfakion, popłynęliśmy pierwszym promem da Aghia Roumeli ( nie byliśmy tam za wcześnie, po 12 ) i poszliśmy do Loutro, gdzie z pewnym trudem zdążyliśmy na ostatni prom do Chora Sfakion. Ale jak byśmy nie zdążyli to do zmroku spokojnie dalo by się dojść do Chorej. 

Później byliśmy tam jeszcze kilkukrotnie, chcieliśmy w 2013 spać tam na plaży - byliśmy przygotowani bo wybieraliśmy się dalej do Soughii. i na Elafonisi ale jak o 18 szef tawerny przyniósł dwulitrowa bańkę raki na trzy osoby to wymieniliśmy i po kilku kolejkach powiedzieliśmy że musimy iść do Aghia Roumeli by rano iść dalej. Dopiero w 2016 biwakowalismy tam trzy dni - wtedy też był ten sam szef, ale jego młody pomocnik który poznał nas powiedział że szef jest niestety poważnie chory i nie może pić.Ale też pamiętał że byliśmy u niego kilka razy.

2022-02-03 06:53:33

Coś dla piechurów. Leży na cudownym szlaku E4

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Church with the Golden Step

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The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary with the Golden Step dating from the seventeenth century is the westernmost sacred building of this type, 9 kilometers away from Elafonissi. There is no way to overlook the convent leading to this monastery, because Hrisoskalitissas is about half a kilometer from the main road leading from Kissamos towards Elafonisi. It is worth joining this church with a rest on the most famous beach of Crete. The main advantage of Hrisoskalitissas, for which it is worth seeing it is a beautiful location on the top of a rock rising steeply over the sea shore.

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Church with the Golden Step

Church with the Golden Step

Redirected from the page - Church with the Golden Step. The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary with the Golden Step dating from the seventeenth century is the westernmost sacred building of this type, 9 kilometers away from Elafonissi. There is no way to overlook the convent leading to this monastery, because Hrisoskalitissas is about half a kilometer from the main road leading from Kissamos towards Elafonisi. It is worth joining this church with a rest on the most famous beach of Crete. The main advantage of Hrisoskalitissas, for which it is worth seeing it is a beautiful location on the top of a rock rising steeply over the sea shore.

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Najnowsze komentarze:

Przestali bawić się w plandemię więc mają wzrosty. Portugalia dołączyła od lipca, stracili 2 miesiące w stosunku do Grecji.
Widać w Grecji tłumy. Po dwóch latach pandemii aż mi przeszkadza że jest tyle osób. Ale z drugiej strony może Grecy zrozumieją, że da się żyć bez rosyjskich turystów. Na forach greckich wylewała się wczesniej fala żółci na zamknięcie przestrzeni dla rosyjskich samolotów. Było to wręcz obrzydliwe i ciężko było czytać pretensje Greków i ataki na Ukraińców. (...)
Gosia | crete.pl : Wszystko co dobre się kiedyś kończy. Kreta od kilku lat przeżywa oblężenie, kiedyś może ten szał minie. A jeśli nie to tak jak piszesz - Grecja ma wiele nieodkrytych miejsc.
Gosia | crete.pl : Można dojechać tylko samochodem. Od Gouverneto do Katholiko to maksymalnie pół godziny wolnego spaceru w jedną stronę.
gość PiotrWie: Też uważam że szkoda ale tego nie odwrócimy. Dlatego postanowiliśmy zmienić kierunki - będziemy jeździć na wyspy jeszcze nie upowszechnione turystycznie choć wiemy że jest to droższe i trudniejsze, ale zdecydowanie ciekawsze. W maju byliśmy na Kimolos ( i przy okazji na Milos) a na wrzesień mamy bilety na Astipaleę. Na szczęście w ostatnich 15 latach zdążyliśmy zwiedzić sporo Krety.
maciej zyluk : Hej, Czy do klasztoru Gouverneto mozna dojechac transportem publicznym czy tylko wynajmujac samochod?  Bylbym zainteresowany dojsciem do klasztoru Catholico. Ile trzeba zaplanowac czasu na taka wyprawe? (Gouverneto - Catholico - Gouverneto?
Bardzo szkoda :/
janusz_safari: Na jeep safari mamy póki co zeszłoroczne
Gosia | crete.pl : Poprzednia podwyżka (10-12%) była pod koniec marca/początek kwietnia. Niektórzy armatorzy zapowiadali, już wtedy że będą starali się nie podnosić cen w przyszłości ale kosztem wydłużenia czasu podróży albo redukcji części połączeń. Może tak jest w przypadku który sprawdzasz. A jeśli niektórzy nie podnieśli cen to super. I tak wszystko jest wystarczająco drogie.
gość PiotrWie: A poprzednie były kiedy - bo ja też sprawdziłem na Ferries.gr i z Pireusu na Milos kosztuje nadal 74,70 jak kosztowało gdy sprawdzałem w styczniu - finalnie polecieliśmy samolotem ale cena jest dziś ta sama jak w styczniu - sprawdziłem na 5 lipiec, powrót na 13 lipiec. Może podwyżki są na wybrane trasy lub w niektórych firmach?
gość Lp: czy hotel evita mare na Rodos w Faliraki ma certyfikat EOT? Ile gwiazdek ma przyznane?
O nie. Czyli lepiej kupować bilet z wyprzedzeniem?
Bylam
Nam się bardzo tutaj podobało.
Cena benzyny w tym roku na Krecie powala. Udało się tanio wynająć samochód, bo ceny początkowo też odstraszały, a później przyszedł szok na stacji
jemod cilok : Aradena Gorge in the coming days
gość Romek: że byłem na krecie miesiąc temu, pogoda cudowna, nie kalkulowałem kilometrów i 3 tys. zł jak nie więcej zaoszczędzone. Takie wychodzą różnice między sezonem tzw. niskim a sezonem wysokim.
Tak się kończy kiepska polityka sankcji na których to de facto Europa traci
gość PiotrWie: Samochód z pełnym ubezpieczeniem bez udziału własnego wypożyczałem ostatnio z 10 lat temu, od jakiegoś czasu wszyscy ubezpieczają z udziałem własnym od 600 do 1000 euro, co jest pewnym zabezpieczeniem przed niefrasobliwym traktowaniem samochodów z wypożyczalni - typu "poszaleję sobie bo nic mi nie grozi". (...)
Ilekroć jeździlem po Krecie to zawsze odnosiłem wrażenie że te samochody, którymi przemieszczałem się palą mniej paliwa niż podaje producent. Może oni czymś chrzczą to paliwo czy co
do tego jeszcze dodać ceny wypożyczenia auta w tym roku na greckich wyspach... :(
Wróciłem tydzień temu z Krety, ceny wahają się pomiędzy €2,41,- a €2,49,- za litr. Rekordowa cena jaką widziałem to €2,57,- na New National Road między Heraklio, a Rethymno.
Cenny paliwa w Grecji są bardzo wysokie
gość Basia: Cześć byłabym wdzięczna za podpowiedź jak się najlepiej przedostać z Kissamos do Analipsi, będę jechała za tydzień, w początek lipca, z dwójką dzieci, czy da się bez przesiadek? z góry dziękuję za odpowiedz :)
Parklot

Ciekawe miejsca na Krecie

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